Destination: New Orleans, Louisiana, USA.
Travelled: April/May (for Jazz Fest).
“Let the good times roll” is more than a motto in New Orleans – it’s a way of life.
This was our first time in the Deep South — and what a way to start. New Orleans kicked off our Southern Music Cities driving tour, a road trip that also took us through Natchez, Memphis, and Nashville (links coming soon!). But NOLA set the bar high from day one.
Some background on New Orleans
New Orleans is one of the most distinctive cities in the United States, located in the southeastern corner of Louisiana, near the mouth of the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico. With a population of just under 400,000, it’s a compact yet vibrant city that punches far above its weight in terms of culture, history, and personality — and this is dwarfed by the nearly 20 million visitors it welcomes each year.
Originally founded by the French in 1718 and later owned by the Spanish before becoming part of the USA through the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, New Orleans has a rich, multicultural heritage that’s reflected in everything from its architecture to its food and music.
The city is served by Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport (MSY), with direct flights from major U.S. cities and a handful of international destinations — we flew BA direct from London. It’s best known for its jazz, Mardi Gras celebrations, and Creole cuisine, but New Orleans also offers a deep and often complex history, stunning old-world neighbourhoods, and a warm, welcoming vibe that’s entirely its own.
Why we went: music lovers in their element
We’re huge live music fans and have a long-standing love of concerts and festivals. This year, New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival finally made it off the bucket list and onto the boarding pass. The lineup? Absolutely wild — The Rolling Stones, Foo Fighters, Neil Young, Joe Bonamassa, and we got to discover the amazing sounds of local blues favourites including Tab Benoit and Trombone Shorty.
But beyond the big acts, what really drew us in was the promise of a city where music is in the air, the streets, and the soul of its people. And New Orleans more than delivered.
Where we stayed: charm in the French Quarter
We checked into the Bourbon Orleans Hotel, a beautiful spot nestled right in the French Quarter. It had just the right blend of historic character and modern comfort. Think leafy courtyards, flickering lanterns, and balconies that look out over the Quarter’s vibrant streets.
Steps from:
- St. Louis Cathedral and Jackson Square
- The colourful chaos of Bourbon Street
- The quieter charm of Royal Street, with its galleries and musicians
- Fabulous individual boutique shops, stalls, bars and restaurants to explore
Evenings on the balcony with a drink in hand, listening to the echoes of street jazz — pure joy.
WaxyTip: It’s a great location if you want to explore on foot. But light sleepers may want to request a courtyard-facing room — or pack earplugs. The party doesn’t stop early in the French Quarter.
The music is everywhere
Even outside the festival, music is the lifeblood of this city. Whether it’s a second line parade, a street performer on Royal, or a jazz trio tucked into a dive bar, New Orleans doesn’t do quiet.
Frenchmen Street at night
Forget Bourbon Street’s karaoke clubs — Frenchmen Street is where the real music happens. We started at The Spotted Cat, where a local jazz band turned the place electric. Then wandered into d.b.a. for some brass-heavy funk that had us grinning from ear to ear.
WaxyTip: Don’t plan too rigidly. The best nights here are about strolling, listening, and ducking into whatever bar is calling your name.
Second Line surprise
While browsing art stalls near Jackson Square we heard drums in the distance. Within minutes, a full brass band and dancing parade spun past us in a blur of sequins, feathers, and rhythm. Locals jumped in to dance. We were happy to enjoy the spectacle!
Don’t forget to eat!
You’ve probably heard people go on about New Orleans’ unique take on food. It’s certainly different, but it can also be limiting for people with less exotic tastes. If crawfish or po’boys is not for you (as it wasn’t for us), there is still plenty to choose from. Here’s what wowed us:
Must-eats
- Beignets at Café du Monde – Yes, it’s famous for a reason. Light, sugary pillows of joy. We made a mess. We didn’t care.
- Cochon – A relaxed spot with big flavour.
- Central Grocery – Grabbed a muffuletta to take into Jazz Fest. The olive tapenade kicks.
Things to see and do
We packed our days with a mix of iconic landmarks and unexpected discoveries. Here’s what stuck with us:
Don’t miss
- St. Louis Cathedral & Jackson Square – Classic for a reason. Gorgeous architecture and vibrant street life.
- Preservation Hall – A small, no-frills venue with world-class jazz. A must for music lovers.
- Garden District – Stunning mansions under sweeping oaks. Ride the St. Charles streetcar for that Southern Gothic vibe.
- Night-time ghost tour – Campy, creepy, and full of laughs. Shout-out to our guide Charlene who brought the history to life.
Hidden gems
- Faulkner House Books – A literary treasure tucked behind the cathedral. Quiet, beautiful, and full of character.
- Backstreet Cultural Museum – Celebrating Mardi Gras Indians and Black cultural history. Deeply moving and brilliantly curated.
- Carousel Bar – Inside the Hotel Monteleone. Yes, the bar slowly spins.
Good to know
- When to go: Late April was ideal — warm but not oppressive, and full of life thanks to Jazz Fest.
- What to pack: Layers. It’s warm during the day, breezy at night, and there’s definately a chance of a downpour!
- Getting around: Walk as much as you can — the French Quarter and nearby areas are totally walkable. For longer trips, we used Ubers rather than renting a car in the city.
Final thoughts
New Orleans was an amazing entree to The South. The music, the people, the food, the history — it’s a place that gets under your skin in the best way.
As the first stop on our Southern Music Cities road trip, it set the tone beautifully. We came for Jazz Fest and left with so much more: spontaneous street parades, late-night jam sessions, and enough beignet sugar to coat our passports.
If you love culture, music, great food, and real atmosphere, then put New Orleans at the top of your list.
Next stop: Natchez