Natchez and the road north: grand homes and echoes of the past

Destination: Natchez, Mississippi, USA.
Travelled: May.


Leaving behind the music of New Orleans for some quiet charm

After soaking up the sights, sounds, and soul of New Orleans, we pointed the car north, leaving behind the Bourbon Street bustle for something altogether quieter. Our next stop was Natchez – a Mississippi River town steeped in history, grand antebellum architecture, and Southern charm. But first, the journey.


Plantation history at Magnolia Mound

Taking the I-10 westward towards Baton Rouge, we planned a stop that would help us begin to understand the deeper, and more difficult, layers of the South’s past. Magnolia Mound, in Baton Rouge, is a preserved 18th-century plantation house that today operates as a museum and educational site. We spent a couple of hours exploring the grounds and exhibits including an excellent video, gaining insight into the lives of both the plantation owners and the enslaved people who lived and laboured there. It’s a sobering but important stop – sensitively presented and informative.

WaxyTip: Magnolia Mound is mid-priced and easy to navigate on your own in a couple of hours. Guided tours also run regularly, and we recommend joining one if you want to get the full historical context.


A gentle detour to Saint Francisville

From Baton Rouge, it’s a short and scenic drive north to the quaint little town of Saint Francisville – a perfect stop for lunch and a leg stretch. Perched on the high banks of the Mississippi, this charming town was once an important river trading post and retains much of its 19th-century charm. Colourful wooden buildings, antique shops, and sleepy cafés line the streets, and there’s a gentle, time-stood-still feel.

Things to see in Saint Francisville:

  • The Myrtles Plantation – dubbed one of the most haunted homes in America
  • Grace Episcopal Church – one of the oldest Protestant churches in Louisiana
  • Downtown stroll – pop into quirky shops and soak up the small-town Southern vibe

We enjoyed a relaxed walk through the historic district after lunch, admiring the well-preserved homes and soaking in the peaceful pace of life. This isn’t a place you rush through – it’s a place to wander and breathe.


Arriving in Natchez

By late afternoon, we rolled into Natchez, where the streets are wide, the pace is unhurried, and the buildings… well, they’re nothing short of majestic. Set high on the bluffs above the Mississippi, Natchez feels both grand and intimate – a town of stories and faded glamour.

Our overnight stop was the Guest House Historic Mansion, a beautifully restored 19th-century property in the heart of Natchez’s historic downtown. We were genuinely impressed – high ceilings, period furniture, and a porch perfect for evening drinks (with a gentle warning: bring insect repellent! We didn’t, and paid the price the next morning).

Stay highlight: The breakfast the next day was superb – homemade, hearty, and served with real Southern hospitality.


A town rich with stories

Natchez dates back to the early 1700s and was once one of the wealthiest cities in America, due largely to its booming cotton trade and river access. Many of the grand homes from that era still stand, giving the whole town a stately air. But what we loved most was the quiet elegance – the wide roads, the historic buildings, and the easy-going charm that invites you to slow down and look around.

We joined a tour of the Temple B’nai Israel, the striking red-brick synagogue built in 1905. It’s a beautiful building, and the tour offered a fascinating glimpse into Natchez’s once-thriving Jewish community, which dates back to the early 1800s. At its peak, the Jewish population numbered several hundred, many of whom were merchants and shopkeepers who helped shape the town’s economy and culture.


Other things to do in Natchez

There’s plenty to fill a full day or two in Natchez. Whether you’re into history, architecture, or just soaking up the Southern charm, it’s all easily walkable and full of atmosphere.

Our recommendations:

  • Longwood – a unique octagonal mansion left unfinished due to the Civil War
  • Stanton Hall – a beautifully preserved antebellum mansion with grand interiors
  • Natchez City Cemetery – one of the most picturesque cemeteries we’ve visited, full of stories and moss-draped oaks
  • Horse-drawn carriage tours – 40-minute narrated rides through the historic district; a great way to imagine the town in its heyday
  • Walk the Bluff Trail – panoramic views of the Mississippi River and an ideal sunset stroll
  • Natchez Under-the-Hill – once a rowdy port-side area, now home to shops, bars, and restaurants along the riverbank

Dining in Natchez

We had an excellent dinner at Pearl Street Pasta, a warm and welcoming Italian restaurant in the historic centre. Think hearty dishes, exposed brick walls, and a buzzy local crowd – perfect after a day on your feet.

Other notable eateries:

  • Fat Mama’s Tamales – this funky spot is a local favourite
  • Magnolia Grill – perched on the bluff, great views and classic Southern fare
  • The Camp – casual riverside dining with beers and relaxed vibes

Final thoughts

Natchez was a real contrast to New Orleans – quieter, slower, but just as rich in story. If you’re interested in Southern history, grand architecture, and a slower pace that lets you soak it all in, Natchez is well worth the stop. One night was just right for us on this leg of the trip, but you could easily stay two if you wanted to dive deeper into its many museums and mansions.

For us, it was the perfect mid-point: a restful, reflective pause between the buzz of New Orleans and the music-filled roads ahead.

Next stop: Memphis